THE ROAD TAKEN : 48 Hours At Tillicum Beach

In early October, on the day of the shutdown, authorities showed up at federal parks such as the stunning Tillicum Beach, where we've stayed on earlier trips (turns out we were here 3 years ago nearly to the day), and told them to close down in 48 hours. The on-site host went around to all campers and told them they had two days to vacate.

You've heard us talk about camp hosts before--in state parks these are mainly volunteers who get to stay free in exchange for a handful of duties. In this particular federal park--and hundreds of others-- the camp host is employed by a company that contracts with the US Forest Service. But because of some bureaucratic tangle, the park here never closed.

Until the afternoon we pulled in and the friendly host told us we had just 48 hours before he'd been ordered to put up the chain.

You can see what makes this campground unique:

extraordinary views of the Pacific

Fine with us. We were doubtful given the insanity in DC that it would be open at all. Normally it is--every day of the year.

Tuesday started out well with breakfast at the Bunk House, and don't even ask what town it's in. We drove south from Cannon Beach looking to have a late main-meal breakfast.

And we certainly found one.

I love the vibe in places like this, people watching at 9:30 am. The two women back there appeared to be having Bible study, the couple just in front of us bloody marys. Now there's a contrast.

Then there was the just-married guy at the next table, clearly in love with his daughter.

It rained on and off all day driving south along the coast. We stopped at Fred Myer in one of the larger towns to do a modest grocery shop. We first learned about this store in Boise when we accompanied Camille (hi Camille!) during our most enjoyable visit, and it seems the number of organic products on offer has grown.

We pulled in to Tillicum, unpacked between showers, slept to the sound of the pounding surf, and awoke to this clear blue sky. Many sites have an enchanting hobbit-like entrance to the beach.

Where we stretched it out for a few miles on a good walk. What is it about this seaweed that's so otherworldly?

Here's a lo-o-o-n-g one.

This is one of the deepest beaches we've seen on this coast.

It's a real gift in the midst of an Oregon October to sit like a lizard in the sun, reading. And, by the way, so enjoyed this book.

Plus, more rocks for Wayne sitting on the cover.

Lunch is canned soup: Amy's Thai Coconut. Excellent.