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THE ROAD TAKEN
Saturday, April 1, 2023
Thursday, March 30, 2023
Mt Ruapehu
Ruapehu rises in the night sky over the mountain village of Ohakune
Greetings from Ohakune, at the southern end of Tongariro National Park. That's not my photo above, but it's a good one, showcasing the scale of the largest active volcano in NZ. Mt Ruapehu's three peaks offer two ski fields and the surrounding area is a dream for mountain bikers and walkers.
Only a USian would mis-interpret that second pictogram as an automatic weapon. Or possibly only me.
Today we hiked the Mangawhero Forest Walk. We always feel better in the trees.
Back home for some laundry, a little sun sitting, and a supper of smoked fish with rice and all these bits. Tomorrow more Ruapehu...
Tuesday, March 28, 2023
Volcano Out The Kitchen Window: Tongariro National Park
In the mountains, the air is perfectly clear and quenching, there's not a hint of road noise, and you park once and walk everywhere. And then, as just happened while I was writing you, a snowstorm blows through for 90 seconds on a sunny day and all you can do is laugh.
Catching up: back on Lake Taupo Art beach-picked a new hat.
On the drive to Tongariro National Park we stopped for gas and got more than full service.
Because we're without a caravan we're staying in a cabin on the park
grounds, a short walk from the beautifully maintained walking tracks.
The cabin has a generous kitchen, which we've put to good use sauteing snapper.
You could all be staying here with us in the extra sets of bunks. Each day we say hello to folks from all over the world who are here for the hikes, but people also come in winter to ski.
We've been walking the various tracks and enjoying it immensely. This is our kind of biosphere.
There's enormous variation in landscape.
Monday, March 27, 2023
NZ Green Lipped Mussels for Dinner
Happily, they sell these at the grocery. Easy to saute a little garlic in butter, toss the mussels in, add some lemon/water/wine, and put a lid on it. 15 minutes later, all we're missing is Rob's sourdough...
Saturday, March 25, 2023
The Waitahanui River
What a day to step softly or gently cast a fly upon the moving waters. The Waitahanui river is a fly fisher's dream and our idea of a perfect walk. We got lost in the reserve each time we entered.
The original Waitahanui Lodge (we're staying in the 1950s version) was built in 1932 on 2.5 acres by ex-pat Englishman Fred Fletcher. He and his family worked from dawn until dark in the middle of winter to get the lodge up.
In those days, the trout being caught here often weighed more than 20 pounds.
The old weatherboard lodge consisted of a dining room, kitchen, living room, and sleeping for nine, no electricity or running water, but most certainly a smokehouse to smoke trout and also to cure wild pork and venison.
In the early days there was no limit on the catch and word soon got out. Before long people from around NZ and the world came to stay, including diplomats and English royalty (who, it has been noted, were treated just the same as everyone else). In the 1950s, the lodge was rebuilt into individual units, still spartan by today's standards.
Look at the clarity of this water.
We walked the dreamy river on each of the three mornings we awoke here, occasionally speaking to the fishers, women and men skilled at arcing a line elegantly across the sky. More on the fishing here.
The reserve is just across the street from our small space, where we've awakened to the sound of waves each day.
2023 stats
Self-contained accommodation is common here and includes a kitchen and bathroom. I wrangled that oven-top electric range at left until we got meals from it.
Last night Art grilled on the gas grill just outside our door. We wanted burgers.
Here's a curious product, ground coffee in bags, kind of like tea. These came with the room so I tried them and was as underwhelmed with the result as I was in 2019.
It's summer's end and tomatoes are still decent, though not unsprayed. The meat was delectable.