Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Chips, Fries and Wedges, Fish Bait and Ice

What, still in Kaiterteri? You were perhaps hoping for pictures of a fresh NZ destination? Well, it can't be Abel Tasman every day, plus a work schedule shift and the campground deal (US $105 for seven nights) were inducements. Also just being here. We've been walking a lot, discovering even more secret beaches tucked into the folds of this tiny, mostly sunny, curve at the top of the South Island.

On Monday it rained on and off all day, punctuated by moments of brilliant clarity.

Falling asleep and waking up to the sound of crashing waves makes a little rain no worry. We went to the one restaurant in Kaiterteri and I had an intensely delicious bouillabaisse, the John Dory, gurnard, and squid taking a final swim.

Tuesday we were out of food except for half a cabbage, two sad radishes, and a couple onions. Back to the communal kitchen for some frenzied chopping between work sessions while Art figured out the electric hob (trust me, if I had to work it we'd eat raw).

 It was good

Time to head to Motueka, a short twisty ride from here, to stock the larder, yes, but also to get NZ dollars and an array of items needed before we set out Thursday for Karamea on the west coast of the South Island, our next foray into this enchanting land. Here's the map.

In Motueka, we bought loads of food at New World, the grocery we first shopped at in Auckland. Organic vegetables aside (nobody really carries them), it's got a fine selection.

Next, this place, for the kind of stuff you get at this place--a tiny waste can to hold our garbage under the tiny sink, stick-up hooks for towels, a bathmat, and an outdoor entry rug. A big objective when camping is to track in the least amount of stuff on your shoes as possible.

This shop is called Mitre10. It's a hardware store and if I didn't round up Art periodically he'd probably spend all day here.

I got dishtowels (or, if you prefer, dobby tea towels) at Mitre 10.

I love to look at lists belonging to other people. This one's mine, but I still like it. The box in the center contains the addresses (Motueka is so small all the shops are on High Street) for the Mitre 10, Super Liquor, the Warehouse, and the resale shop. We know where the grocery is. I'm still searching for a nice heavy frypan that isn't coated and isn't thin aluminum.

Aisle sign in New World Market. You gotta love Chips, Fries and Wedges, Fish Bait and Ice.

At New World I spotted fresh filets of gurnard in the fish cabinet. You might remember it from this photo, a smallish winged fish in plentiful supply. More on red gurnard:
Red gurnard (Chelidonichthys kumu), or kumu-kumu of the Maoris, is easily recognised by its parchment-like side fins, which resemble wings, and the curious fingerlike processes associated with these fins. The fingers are used to grope about the sea bottom in search of crustaceans and other animal food. The gurnard grows up to 20 in. in length, but the usual size is 13–15 in. It is largely reddish brown, but the winglike fins are dark green relieved by sky blue spots and bright red rays. It is a good food fish and occurs abundantly in most parts of New Zealand, except in the extreme south.

Gurnard is a good food fish. I've had it fried (most recently in panko) and in the bouillabaisse. Time to try our own approach.

We warmed a generous amount of olive oil and NZ smoked butter, salt and peppered these filets, and tossed 'em in.

Probably more than we needed, but utterly fresh, flaky, and melty delicious.

No comments:

Post a Comment